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                                                                                                                                              The 2019 “Spring Tea Consumption Statis-  ed, maintaining the architectural style of tradi-
                                                                                                                                          tics” released by Taobao, one of the world’s largest   tional western Sichuan dwellings.
                       “Goji soaked in                                                                                                    e-commerce platforms, shows that 54% of spring   four-leaf fans and stools, while the latter has
                                                                                                                                                                                   The former still greets the guests with its
                                                                                                                                          tea consumers on the platform are people born
          thermos”, a joke once                                                                                                           after 1985, and young people are gradually replac-  welcomed and saw off generations of tea drink-
                                                                                                                                                                               ers by the light of the sun and moon spilling
                                                                                                                                          ing the elderly as the main consumer group of
        used to tease the mid-                                                                                                            traditional tea.                     from the rooftop patio. They used to be like a
                                                                                                                                                                               hideaway from modern life, with only regular
                                                                                                                                              In our daily lives, we can also find many
            dle-aged, eventually                                                                                                          modern teahouses in the city, offering high-end   customers and the passing years coming through
                                                                                                                                                                               the door every day. With their appearance in
                                                                                                                                          branding based on traditional Chinese tea ceremo-
                   can characterize                                                                                                       ny culture, or providing photo-worthy venues with   movies and TV shows and the spread of infor-
                                                                                                                                                                               mation on the Internet, they are beginning to
                                                                                                                                          stunning scenes that rival those in movies and
                millennials as they                                                                                                       television. But they were never as busy as the   have new customers who stop by and travelers
                                                                                                                                          traditional teahouses that have stood on the streets
                                                                                                                                                                               who come from afar. The film “Crazy Stone”
                                                                                                                                          since our childhood.                 chose the Jiaotong Teahouse as one of their
                have grown up and                                                                                                         Rebirth of the Teahouse              shooting sites. Pengzhen old teahouse has also
        entered the workforce.                                                                                                                                                 become an increasingly popular place for young
                                                                                                                                                                               people to take pictures, thanks to the photos
                                                                                                                                              At the southeast end of Chongqing’s Ji-  taken by a couple of photographers.
                                                                                                                                          ulongpo district lies the Jiaotong Teahouse that
                                                                                                                                          opened in 1987. The two-story wooden building   The Humane Touch
                                                                                                                                          is the only teahouse in the city that retains the
                                                                                                                                          style of the 1970s and 1980s. Its mottled brick   The “humane touch” is one of the most
                                                                                                                                          walls speak of its age. Originally a cafeteria and   commonly used phrases to describe our nostalgia
                                                                                                                                          bathhouse for the Huangjueping Transportation   for life in the olden days, ranging from pricing,
                                                                                                                                          and Handling Company, the building has been   atmosphere and environment to the way we
                                                                                                                                          transformed from a living space for families,   experience it.
                                                                                                                                          thus making the surrounding residents feel more   Different from the new modern teahouses,
                                                                                                                                          intimate.                            the traditional teahouses represented by the Ji-
                                                                                                                                              The old teahouse in Pengzhen, Shuangliu   aotong Teahouse and Pengzhen old teahouse
                                                                                                                                          County, Chengdu, which has a longer history   keep the tea prices low. For example, local senior
                                                                                                                                          than the Jiaotong Teahouse, was built on the   citizens can drink tea for only 1 Yuan at Peng-
                                                                                                                                          former site of the Goddess of Mercy Pavilion at   zhen old teahouse, and tourists who visit for
                                                                                                                                  Photo / Jason Leung
                                                                                                                                          the end of the Qing Dynasty. It is located along   photo-taking are only charged with 10 Yuan. The
                                                                                                                                          the banks of the Yangliu River in Pengzhen, with   most expensive tea at Jiaotong Teahouse is black
                                                           Fresh Party in the Teahouse                                                    its legendary stories of the old house which   tea and bamboo leaf green tea, at only 8 Yuan a
                                                                                                                                          survived the fire more than a hundred years ago   bowl. Compared to teahouses that charge hun-
                                                               A few years ago, we used to see editorials                                 and all the worship and love from generations   dreds for a pot of tea and tens for a refill, the
                                                           saying that tea was for old people and coffee was                              of local residents. Since the new century, Peng-  profits of old teahouses are as meager as an ant
                                                           for young people. However, when the new-style                                  zhen old teahouse has not been much renovat-  looking up to an elephant.
                                                           tea drinks in the form of milk tea has become so
                                                           popular like a wave weeping across China and
                                                           Chinese around the world, they have shifted
                                                           gears and defined traditional tea as an antique
                                                           discarded by young people.
                                                               However, as social development accelerates
                                                  Photo / Billow 926
                                                           and various “rich people’s diseases” are gener-
                                                           ated, the issue of health is brought up and valued
                                                           by mainstream consumers. “Goji soaked in
                                                           thermos”, a joke once used to tease the mid-
                                                           dle-aged, eventually can characterize millennials
                                                           as they have grown up and entered the workforce.

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